Kamari speaks perfect English, German and Swedish and has never abandoned its Northern European habits. Up early for a hearty English breakfast beside the pool at the beach hotel and then spending hours on a deck chair baking in the sun. This is pack-age tour country. The hotels are block-booked early in the season by some of Europe's biggest tour operators.

The package tourist finds a whole little world here, ready to meet his every need In fact as ridiculous as it may seem, he may even go home without even having laid eyes on the Caldera. The shore road has recently been closed to traffic, making Kamari more people friendly. Trying to attract individual tourists as well the package trade, the hotels have all up-graded their standards, and those that miss out on the view make up for it in services.

A number of better restaurants have opened as well, abandoning the "a little of every - thing" approach. What brings all Santorini to down to Kamari, however, is its outdoor cinema - the only one on the island, and with a lovely, friendly atmosphere. This is where the Jazz Festival takes place every year.

Unlike other beach resorts, Kamari is inhabited year round. It was designed and created to house the villagers of Messa Gonia, who lost their houses in the 1956 earthquake. Along the shore, in addition to the hotels and there are also shops, bakeries supermarkets, ATMs and a medical centre.